What Is a Underwood No. 5 Typewriter Worth in 2026? Resale Price Guide

What this piece actually is

The Underwood No. 5 is the typewriter that defined an era, manufactured by the Underwood Typewriter Company starting in 1900 and produced in various forms for roughly three decades. It pioneered the “visible writing” design where the typist could see the text as it was being typed, replacing the blind-typing machines that came before. The body is heavy cast iron painted black, with glass side panels that expose the working mechanism, a heavy platen (roller), and a leather-covered paper table on top. Later versions shifted slightly in styling, but the core layout and the satisfying mechanical typing feel stayed consistent across the production run.

What is it worth right now?

Based on current live eBay listings for the Underwood No. 5 Typewriter, prices run roughly $5–$364, with a median around $119.50. That puts a typical mid-market resale near $119.50. The gap between the cheapest listings and the median is about $114.50, and that spread is exactly the room condition, completeness, and color move within. This is a live-market estimate, not a fixed price.

What drives the price up

A machine with all four original glass panels intact and crack-free is significantly more desirable than one with chips or replacements. Working mechanical condition matters—keys that strike cleanly, a carriage that returns smoothly, and a functional ribbon mechanism all push value up. Original Underwood ribbon spools beat generic modern replacements, and an intact soft platen matters more than people expect. Carrying cases in good shape with working latches add value, as do machines retaining the original paper table and all four rubber feet. Collectors also pay attention to serial numbers; earlier serial ranges with original finish and crisp decals can pull more interest than later-production examples.

What drags the price down

Chipping, flaking, or repainted finish drops value quickly because the paint is hard to restore without compromising decals and pinstriping. Cracked or replaced glass panels are a major downgrade since original panes with the original metal framing are part of what makes the machine visually iconic. Sticky keys, a frozen carriage, or stripped type slugs mean a typewriter that won’t type even if it looks clean on the outside. Rust on the platen, a pitted platen surface, or hardened and crumbly rubber means a machine that can’t hold paper well. Missing feet, broken paper tables, repainted spools, and decals painted over all subtract noticeably from what someone will pay.

Is it worth buying at a garage sale?

Yes, almost always, even when it isn’t functional—decorative demand alone keeps the floor value solid. The biggest things to check are the glass panels (the gamble with these is whether all four are intact), the platen rubber (press a fingernail in—does it spring back, or is it hard and cracked?), and whether all the keys move freely when you slide the carriage over. Bring gloves or a towel because the cast iron gets cold and the corners can scratch you, and don’t underestimate the weight when hauling it to your car. Even a non-typing example with original glass and a soft platen is worth grabbing. Skip it only if the cast iron is cracked, multiple panels are missing, or it’s been badly repainted.

Should you sell it locally or ship it?

Local sale is the practical default because of the weight—these are awkward to box correctly and expensive to ship if you under-pack them. Listings in nearby metro areas on the usual marketplaces usually pull decent offers from writers, decorators, and small-scale collectors who don’t want to gamble on shipping damage. If you do ship, you need a double-walled box, snug foam or heavy cardboard bracing around the body, the ribbon spools wrapped separately, and the carriage locked—glass panels and the platen are the most common shipping casualties. Whatever you do, photograph every panel, the platen, the spools, the feet, and any serial numbers before listing; buyers ask for these shots, and they prove you have a complete machine.

When you should NOT sell it right now

Hold off if the machine has been in the family for generations and you’re not sure how rare it might actually be—early serial numbers and unusual finish variants do exist, so do a quick identification pass first. Don’t list while it’s still sticky or jammed up; basic cleaning and a single test-typing session can change the offers you get. If the ribbon spools are loaded with a still-fresh modern nylon ribbon, resolve that before showing it because fresh ribbons ooze ink onto the segment. If you’re selling alongside a bundle of other items, separate out the typewriter so buyers can evaluate it on its own merit. And if it’s a meaningful family object in a household dispute, sort those questions out before putting a price on it.

How do I tell if it is authentic?

Look for the “Underwood Typewriter Co.” or “Underwood” name cast into the metal, embossed on the back panel, or stamped into the paper table—repainted machines often hide these markings under bad paint. Check underneath for a serial number on the metal base; serial data is well documented and lets you pin down the production year, which is a quick authenticity sanity check. The four glass side panels in a metal frame, the front-strike visible segment, and the ribbon spools mounted on top are signatures of the design that no aftermarket assembly gets exactly right. Be wary of machines with no decals at all, mismatched panel glass, modern screws, or paint that hides the casting lines—those are signs of rough refinishing rather than outright fakes, but they still matter for value. If the carrying case looks like molded plastic instead of leather over wood, it’s likely an aftermarket replacement from later decades rather than original equipment.